How-To and Why ->
Razor Hones
It's the Beginning of the Edge

 

Various types of hones are available for the purpose of sharpening straight razors. A hone is typically a rectangular block composed of abrasive material. Since it is harder than steel, and is comprised of millions of microscopic cutting edges, the abrasive in the hone is capable of cutting or filing away metal producing an edge on the razor.


 The final choice of hone rests mainly with the practitioner. The question often arises as to which type of hone will best serve to sharpen a razor. As a general rule, any type of hone can produce satisfactory results provided it is properly used and is capable of producing a sharp cutting edge on the razor. As a result of their experiences, most barbers develop a preference for one type of hone.  The beginner usually practices with a slow-cutting hone, while an experienced practitioner generally prefers a faster cutting hone.


  In selecting a hone, the barber must consider that the finer the abrasive in a hone, the slower its action in developing an effective edge on the razor. For this reason it is sometimes advisable to have a number of hones with varying abrasive qualities. A coarser hone will make establishing an edge or removing blade damage much quicker. A finer hone can be used to refine the edge. A very fine hone will produce the keenest edge possible, which is necessary to provide a close and injury free shave.


 Depending on their source, hones are divided into three main groups: natural hones, synthetic hones and combination hones.

 

Natural Hones


 Natural hones are derived from natural rock deposits. These hones are usually used wet with either water or lather.


 The water hone is a natural hone cut out of rock formations, usually imported from Germany. Accompanying the water hone is a small piece of slate of the same texture called the rubber. As the rubber is applied over the hone, which is moistened with water, a proper cutting surface is developed. Care must be taken when using the rubber hone not to work a bevel into the hone.


 The water hone is primarily a slow-cutting hone. When used as directed by the manufacturer a smooth and lasting edge can be formed on the razor. Its color may be either gray or brown. Of the two colors, the brown water hone is considered to be a slightly better grade, and also exerts a slightly faster cutting action


 The Belgian hone is a natural hone cut out of a rock formation found in Belgium. It is a slow-cutting hone, but a little faster than the water hone. It is capable of putting a very sharp edge on the razor. Lather is generally applied to the hone when honing, to facilitate movement of the razor.


 One type of Belgian hone consists of a top light yellowish colored rock glued onto the back of a dark red slate. The prin­cipal advantage is to yield a keen cutting edge on the razor. It can be used either wet or dry. 


Synthetic Hones 


Synthetic hones, such as the Swaty hone and the carborundum hone, are manufactured products. These hones can be used dry, or a lather can he spread over them before use. Because it cuts faster than the water hone, the synthetic hone has the advantage of producing a keen cutting edge on the razor in less time. 


Carborundum hone is a synthetic hone produced in this country. The barber has a choice of several types, ranging from a slow-cutting hone to a fast-cutting hone. Many practitioners prefer the fast cutting type of hone because of its quick sharpening action. The carborundum hone should not be used by a beginning student because it may produce a very rough edge if not handled properly. 


Combination Hones 


Combination hones consist of a water hone and synthetic hone. The synthetic side is dark brown in color and is used first to develop a good cutting edge. To give the razor a finished edge it is stroked over the water hone. With this type of hone, the practitioner can use the synthetic hone when the razor is bad, use the water hone when the razor needs a little touching-up, or use both hones together as needed. 


Most barbers use either the carborundum or combination hones. It is advisable, however, to be familiar with the other types of hones and understand the benefits of each. 


 


GENERAL INFORMATION ON HONES 


Hones are to a large extent a matter of choice, and the type of steel in a razor makes some difference as to whether a good edge can be put on it with a particular type of hone. There are a great many other hones available, besides the several mentioned, which will give very satisfactory results. 


Care of the Hone 


Always clean the hone before using. Whenever a hone fills with tiny steel particles they must he removed. In order to obtain satisfactory results the best method is by using water and a pumice stone. If a new hone is very rough, the same method can be used to work it into shape. 


When wet honing is done, the hone should always be wiped dry after each use. This aids in cleaning the hone and also wipes away the tiny particles of steel that adhere to its cutting surface and clog the pores. 


 


ClassicShaving.com editor’s note:


 The above information has been taken from the Standard Textbook of Professional Barber-Styling. Copyright 1938, 54, 59, 77, 83, Milady Publishing Company, Tarrytown, NY.  To protect the publisher’s copyright the information above is a paraphrased version of the actual text.